Posts Tagged ‘Secret’

Isla De Providencia, Silent Secret of the Caribbean

I left Colombia (continental, that is) with all its guerrilla – army – paramilitary violence plus the mafia-related problems, headed to, as the island´s webpage proclaimed, “the best kept secret in the Caribbean”. (I already knew the secret since I had been on the islands on sabbatical week twice before). The small airport in Providencia, called El Embrujo (The Bewitchment), brought strange deja-vu feelings not counting the fact that I was still mesmerized by the finite but subtle gradation of colors I had seen in the water from the small plane minutes before landing. The airport zone was like a tropical parade with the multi-color passenger lobby looming over gardens of red hibiscus in their turn being pierced by the yellow bananaquit birds fluttering from one flower to the other in a dreamy slow motion. Beyond, the turquoise waters of the Mc. Bean Lagoon National Park shimmered peacefully.

Isla de Providencia & Santa Catalina are two small mountainous outcrops of land less than 8 square miles both situated 400 miles southwest of Jamaica and a quarter of the way on an imaginary line traced across the Caribbean from Punta Gorda, Nicaragua to Cartagena, Colombia. And a few hours after arriving, there I was, sitting behind this large, black, simpatico and unmet women who decided to take me on her small motorcycle to meet my friend Rolando in order to hand him some pictures I had taken the last time I was here. That type of kindness struck me since it is not very usual in many other places. Clearly on the maps says Col. (Colombia) after the name of the islands. How far is reality from the assumptions this abbreviation brings to people’s minds.

The hurricane season has hit few but strong blows on the islands. One of them came about in 1510 when the expedition of Diego de Nicuenza separated from Alonso de Ojeda (Colon´s Second Voyage) and was caught in a storm and its ships blown to a small island which Nicuenza named Santa Catalina, because it was common in those days to name sites after the Saint of the Day. To the other larger island just 200 meters across a shallow sea he gave the name Providencia in honor to the God that had just saved him.  The beautiful Lover’s Floating Bridge now links the two islands.

A name and a position on a map brought settlers. As the Spanish colonies in Central and South America grew more and more, slaves tried to escape from imprisonment and reached the islands.

So it was for 150 years when the buccaneers, having been given the Elizabethan wink to raze the Spanish galleons that traversed the region hefty with the New World richness, looked for a good place to establish their operations and cure their illnesses. They found these mountainous islands, ungoverned, hills ready to be used as searching periscopes over the Caribbean. Who else could find safety there but the famous Welsh pirate Morgan with also famous Paco, the parrot that sat on his shoulder? Legend says he buried the treasures stolen in Panama in 1671 in these islands.

After Morgan’s escape to Jamaica the Spanish took control of the islands but only by word of mouth since English men with their slaves from Jamaica and the Cayman Islands tried to establish cotton farming here but instead ended up raising cattle. By this time the population was as diverse as the vessels that traversed the Caribbean. Nevertheless, lovers were not interested in racial aspects and African, Anglo, Dutch (who were also around) and Latin mixed, populating the island with that distinct clear eyes-dark skin look of many persons in Providencia. After much give-and-take among governments and several entangled political moves that passed through England, Spain, colonial Guatemala, Chile (the son of Admiral Louis Aury, a corsair, claimed the islands for Chile), Nueva Granada (which included actual Colombia and Panama) and Nicaragua, Colombia would stay with the islands although, as so many islands nowadays, looking at a map it would never occur to anyone that they belong to this country.

Providencians feel Colombian but most of all they feel Providencian, a pride openly demonstrated when they start so many phrases with the words “Our island” talking to outsiders or when they speak a distorted English among them with distinct accents and Spanish words intermixed but very different to the ‘Spanglish’ spoken by Hispanic immigrants in the U.S. They even distill their own Providencia Old Bushi Rum (a little too strong for me I have to say) using spring water outbursting from the mountains. As kind and joyful as they are to other people, they don’t want their island becoming another San Andres, a larger island of the same archipelago with duty-free commerce all around and overpopulation problems. Residence in the island is controlled by a government agency called OCCRE and for outsiders is very difficult to get permanent resident status as more and more tourists that visit Providencia want to stay and share the secret. As I casually heard a woman saying to another: “that seems to happen to everybody that comes to the island. They come for eight days, fall in love with it and then don’t want to leave”.

I remember one night in Providencia as one of the most pleasing I ever had in my life. I was staying at one of the two cabins that a middle-aged fisherman named Van Britton had on Black Bay. That night the waves crashed against the lower wall of the cabin and through a glassless window I could see myriad stars while I slowly fell asleep. At morning a temperate breeze swayed my mosquito net in harmony with the ebb tide. That morning I felt I had found what peace and harmony are about.

There are no big hotels in Providencia, instead there has been an initiative toward having the natives install small cabins in synchrony with the colorful wooden architecture of the islands. The ‘native dwellings’ program surely established the islands as the place for a tourism more willing for nature’s calm rhythms but not entirely disregarding human conveniences or night life for that matter: it is a pleasure to go dancing reggae on one of the open-air bars just by the sea as I did one night with some friends. We arrived a little early by Providencian standards, so we just waited there talking, drinking beer and enjoying the warm night air. By midnight the dance floor was filled with people moving softly to Lucky Dube’s songs.  A longhaired Rasta told me: “this is great, everybody is groovying now” giving me a big smile. I couldn’t have said it better.

The next day I snorkeled from Black Bay to South West Beach passing in front of small beaches with cerulean bays in whose depths hid octopuses, eels, sea snakes and all kinds of coral fish luminous under the sun. I lingered in the water while some horses, one of the foreign contributions to the islands, were readied for a race on the distant beach. It was another Saturday for the Providencia derby and kids around twelve years old jockeyed horses along the shore, riding without saddles and hoping for a moment of glory, the horses’ owners expecting big dividends.  If it’s not horses it’s sail boats or dominoes. “People just love to bet even if they have no money” a young woman named Luz Marina Livingston told me.  But more than that they love the sea. These people are fishermen, sailors and even the most office-secluded person has to take a glimpse at the Caribbean waters daily. They depend on the sea for food in many ways: the staples are fish, sea snail, lobster, and the black land crabs that have to reproduce in the sea but most of the supplies also come by sea on twice-a-week (when lucky) ships from the continent: gasoline, potatoes, rice, flour, drinking water, etc.  If a ship breaks as it happened when I was there, everybody tries to move around the least possible. There are two occasions when everybody stays at their home in Providencia, everyone coincided: when the ship with the gasoline for the hundreds of motorcycles doesn’t come and when it rains.  So from late April to July during the rain season the other ubiquitous inhabitants of the islands come out and take control.

The phenomenon of thousands of crabs that live in the mountains, following their ancestral instincts, coming down the hills to the coast where they reproduce is a truly remarkable natural event. I had specially come at this time of year to witness the march. Confusion, however, was what I found. If somebody told me the crabs had already come down this year just a week before my arrival, a few hours later another person, with the same ‘I know for sure’ look on his face said that they were still to come. 12 days went by and I had to resign myself to watch the crabs eating decaying matter at night. There are many sites where this same reproduction spree takes place. In Christmas Island on the Indian Ocean 120 million crabs (a different species) do the same process and though such numbers are not reported in Providencia, the pictures I had seen showed black crabs covering the only paved road in the island which could be closed at this time of year at Crab Peak Hour Traffic.

After a heavy nocturnal storm I rose early one clear morning day and headed for shore where I found tiny little spiders moving in the pockets of rain. What I took for spiders were actually newly transformed land crabs heading to the mountains. There weren’t a lot of them but it was wonderful to see a life cycle completion, how endurance had worked for these little crabs after being dropped as eggs in the ocean without any other maternal care.

I had yet to see the beginning of the cycle, and it occurred one night when I heard scratching noises on my room door. I knew burglary wasn’t one of Providencia’s problems so I figured it could only be that the crabs had started their 200 meters migration to the shore. The females’ underbodies were full with eggs that looked like Iranian caviar ready to be spread on a cracker. As I moved through the wave of crabs they clapped their claws fiercely. I saw some entering the hotel’s kitchen, climbing walls, crossing the road painfully slowly, descending staircases and some even plummeted from high cliffs to fall unharmed on the rocky shore. The ones that made it to shore settled a little bit and then came forward to reach the gentle surf. At the first contact with the water the females raised their claws like in ecstasy and danced a trembling tropical ‘cumbia’ letting go of their eggs.

The day before departure I grabbed my hammock and decided to tackle The Peak, the tallest mountain of the island. I had never been on that part of the island and, as I would learn later, should have. I passed the last settlements where a few undernourished cows grazed over the dry grass. Then I followed the spring the owner of the hotel told me to look for. The spring was a trickle at this time of year and the tall trees cast a green tinge down over the rocks that formed every now and then small cascades where I sat massaging my back with the falling water. Apparently the mango trees had adapted very well to the environment and some were so plush with fruit that the rocks below were stamped with their explosions. A small shack appeared near the end of the forest assuring me I was in the right direction since this should be the cabin of a hermit Rasta man that makes a living with what he can reap from nature. A little farther up, the forest was one of short palm trees and scrubby vegetation; the ground was rocky which reminded me that this archipelago had risen through volcanic activity millions of years ago. On the top the metallic plaque that stated the 370 meters (1220-ft.) of altitude of The Peak welcomed me mirroring the setting sun.

 Since its eruption from the depths through all the years of political moves of possessive governments the island and Providencians have managed to keep the same peace and tranquility of always and that is their best kept secret.

Day in the Life: Providencia

Providencia

Secret Vacation Destinations to Die For

There are the typical “dream” vacations like Hawaii, Orlando, Florida, London, and Paris. But what about all the unbelievable destinations you may not have even heard about? Here are a select few of them. 1. Cinque Terre, Italy is a series of villages clinging to a remote stretch of the Riviera coastline. The quaintness of the towns and the area’s natural beauty is forever preserved because Cinque Terre has been declared a national park. Hikers love to walk trails that tower above the Mediterranean and pass close by the native villages. Riomaggiore takes you through a tunnel to a tangle of colorful homes and an uncrowded beach. Corniglia sits smugly upon a hilltop from which you can swoon at the view. Vernazza is a rugged place full of vineyard terraces for the best wine in the region, all overseen by a mysterious ruined castle. Monterosso al Mare has a sandy beach where you can swim if you really want to. Then it’s back to Vernazza for a delicious dinner of the freshest seafood. This is beautiful, authentic Italy-the one you dreamed of experiencing. 2. Four Seasons Tented Camp, Thailand: The Golden Triangle is comprised of bamboo forests where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet. This is where you can find Four Seasons, the ultimate jungle luxury-an eclectic mix of asian rustic and modern taste. Fifteen elevated tented accommodations are reminiscent of 19th century adventure expeditions, even down to the hand-hammered copper bathtubs. An open-air thatched roof pavilion by the riverbank offers Thai, Laotian, Burmese, and western cuisine. During the day, one can watch elephant training or go on one of the fascinating excursions. If you need pampering, go to the spa for rejuvenating treatments for your body and spirit. At night, torches burn by the tents as travelers gaze out at a magnificent sunset and find perfect serenity. 3. Marrakech, Morocco: And now for something completely different! When you step into Marrakech you will think you have just stepped into a Middle Eastern movie set. Picture scores of market stalls along an endless labyrinth— snake charmers, monkeys, musicians, dancers and storytellers performing to the sound of weird music and drum beat. Visit the Majorelle Gardens, visit actual Berber villages, see the Dar Si Said Museum, or tour the ornate El Bahia palace. If you want more action, go biking, Hot Air Ballooning, or White Water Rafting. The government ensures that all food stalls offer fresh, top quality food so not to worry. Buy grilled sausages on Moroccan bread, beef stew, harira soup, riifa (Moroccan pancake) and the delicious spicy tea. For posh surroundings, you can eat at the La Makarechi. Otherwise, enjoy repasts at Café Agrana, Café Alhamra, or Chez El Bahia. Foods not to miss are pastille (sweet, savory meat pie), Kefta (superb ground beef and egg), tagine (chicken/olive, prune/almond, etc.), or a spicy dessert. There’s a wide span of lodgings, from modern western hotels to native riads. Equity Point Marrakech is a beautiful hostel to check out in the best section of the city. The place has an amazing rooftop from which to view the town. There are doubles, singles, and dorms available. Rooms have full bathrooms, incredible furniture, mezzanines, cushions, etc. There’s also a restaurant attached serving excellent Moroccan food. If you have a taste for the exotic, Marrakech is for you. 4. St. Vincent, the Grenadines: I know. You’ve probably never heard of the Grenadines. That’s for the best. They are still fresh and unspoiled. It’s a small group of islands between Puerto Rico and the Venezuelan coast. What do these islands offer? Only natural waterfalls where you can swim, black sand beaches, majestic volcanoes, botanical gardens, fortification ruins, Romanesque and Gothic Christian sites, spectacular diving, and serene resorts with every amenity. These are only the perfect islands for you. 5. Whitefish, Montana: Whitefish is a small town in a huge state. But this small town stands near the entrance of one of the most remarkable state parks in the U.S., Glacier National Park. We can heartily recommend two lodging places, depending on your tastes: If you don’t mind country rustic and a distant train whistle, then the Grouse Mountain Lodge is your pick. It has a gigantic fireplace, antler chandeliers, and stuffed bears in the lobby. On the other hand, if you like peace and complete privacy, you might opt for the North Forty Resort with its well-equipped cabins where you can sit on your porch and cook out every night if you want. Some other great places to eat are the award-winning Tupelo Grille, the Red Caboose (breakfast), Mackenzies (pizza), and the Craggy Range (buffalo burgers).There are a thousand things to do, including the national park which encompasses over 1 million acres, 300 lakes, 50 active glaciers, the longest designated wild river system in the U.S., and hundreds of animal species including the wild mountain goat. Do I really have to list all that you can see or do? I think you can figure it out. 6. Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: In the famously beautiful nation of Switzerland, the Oberland could be called the crown jewel. On a comfortable summer day, you will wonder how you can walk through a field of flowers, step over jagged rocks, view snow-studded peaks above you, while lakes just below the peaks are not frozen solid. Gazing down from a mountain top you glimpse bluffs boasting over 70 waterfalls, and then you’re awestruck with panoramic Lauterbrunnen Valley. Even skiers who’ve seen a hundred similar sites agree it’s the most breathtaking valley in Europe. The area offers both great hiking and fast skiing—along with mountain-biking, rock climbing, swimming, golf, horseback riding, tennis, sailing and windsurfing. Bed down in a cozy chalet in Interlaken, Grindelwald, Gstaad, or Thun. 7. Finger Lakes, New York: We’re talking about eleven slender lakes, 25 state parks, 1,063 waterfalls, strings of river gorges, a national wildlife refuge, and acres and acres of wine vineyards. In the midst of this wondrous area, the John Treman State Park comes highly recommended. Two great restaurants are the Taughannock Farms Inn and Port’s Café. Three bed & breakfast inns that folks rave about are: South Glenora Tree Farm, Wagener Estate, and Elmira’s Painted Lady. Between the hiking, the water sports, festivals, cultural events, and the wine-tasting, one does not run out of things to do. 8. Quebec City, Canada: Calling this city the “poor man’s Paris” is very unfair. It’s cobblestone streets and chateau-style clifftop architecture is charming, expenses are lower than in Paris, and it offers attractive options for either summer or winter. Between July 4-14 the International Summer Festival offers streetside improvisational theater and some of the best jazz, folk, and rock performances you will ever hear. And beginning in the middle of January and into February, the city offers Carnival de Quebec. Here you will find the Calgary Stampede flapjack breakfast, outdoor dance parties, ice fishing, a single- and double-harness sleigh race, dog agility competition obstacle course, snow slides, downhill skiing, an ice tower, snow rafting, and a snow sculpture contest. (While you’re in the city, you really can’t afford to miss the Laurentides Wildlife Park). And I’ll bet you thought the only thing to do in Canada was fish. Wrong. I’ll bet you can’t decide which of these destinations you most want to visit. Well, why not rank them and try to go to everyone during your lifetime.

Secret Island Paradises You Cannot Resist

You want to plan that vacation to that glorious tropical island but you’ve only heard of the tourist traps like Nassau, Bahamas or Montego Bay, Jamaica. You want a place without fifteen-story hotels, screaming crowds, and a thousand souvenir shops. You want a place where you can finally relax and recuperate from the smash and grab daily grind. Well, worry no longer. Below you will find eight of the most peaceful paradises in the world. But don’t wait a decade to choose one. By then, they may no longer be some of the best secret travel destinations.

1. Isla de Vieques, Puerto Rico: Because this little gem was controlled by the U.S. Navy until 2003, it lacks the crowds, tourist traps, tall buildings, and traffic of commercialized vacation spots. This is truly an unspoiled island with lush, rolling hills, tranquil lanes, and a pristine beach with bioluminescent waters. At night, under glittering stars, the surf truly lights up with glowing living organisms. It’s like an ethereal wonderland. Besides the stunning beauty, the island offers view of the final Spanish fort built in the Americas; it offers snorkeling, hiking, bicycling, and horseback riding on sleek horses. The residents are warm and personable and you will likely make a few friends before you leave. If you want a little more excitement for a few days, ferry the six miles to San Juan and perhaps stay in their huge resident resort with multi-level, infinity pools and five restaurants to fit your every mood and taste.

 2. Secret Beach, Kauai: Nestled at the base of a sheer cliff just north of Kilaua, it’s hard to find anything about this hideaway to criticize. Cottages nestled on the mountainsides offer a panoramic view. The cottages are furnished with quaint furniture, Jacuzzi, kitchen utensils, appliances, Kauai guidebooks, beach supplies, and even laundry detergent. Enjoy at least a few meals gazing out from your own deck. The beach is private and easy to walk to. Snorkel on Tunnels Reef, have lunch at the Tropical Taco, view the Waimea Canyon (Grand Canyon of the Pacific) and Wailus and Opaeka Falls. Kayak peacefully on the Lanalei River, buy something sweet from the Kilauea Bakery and buy fresh seafood from the fish market across from the King Lung shops. Grill the fish yourself at your cottage for a meal you’ll never forget. This is a Hawaii worlds away from the crazy commercized chaos of Waikiki.

3. Waykaya Club and Spa, Fiji: This is a private 2,200-acre retreat belonging to Fiji’s 333 islands, featuring serene lagoons, majestic cliffs, gorgeous beaches, and encircled by a virgin coral reef. Start off with the stunning orientation walk to begin tasting the wild natural beauty and charm. You will see tropical forests, spectacular lookout points, pristine beaches, and a wildlife sanctuary teaming with feral horses, pigs, deer, and goat. At the Club and Spa you will find a 9-hole golf course, lighted tennis courts, and equipment for a quick game of croquet. The Club will pack a gourmet picnic lunch for you take anywhere your heart leads you. Play a game of billiards or do a vigorous workout followed by a luxurious massage. Tour the organic gardens, the Fijian wood carvers, the cooking demonstrations, or the exotic bird watching. Play beach volleyball, or sit back and enjoy a native dance pageant or Kava ceremony. Then on Sunday, if you like, attend the Village Church to hear the Fiji choir and enjoy the 30-minute service. You will never get bored at the Waykaya Club.

4. Jellyfish Lake, Palau: Palau is a wonderland located about 500 miles from the Philippines. The limestone islands in this area were formed by many thousands of year of coral accretion slowly lifting out of the sea. The one jellyfish lake open to the public is on the uninhabited island of Macharchar. Somehow along the way, the jellyfish have lost their sting, so divers or snorkelers can swim safely among the 1.2 million translucent, orange orbs ranging in size from marble- to volley ball-sized. As they pulsate through the azure waters, they bump harmlessly against snorkelers and drift on. It is doubtful that you will be able to tear yourself away from the jellyfish, but, if so, the sea kayaking among the Rock Islands is superb, and there are fascinating World War II relics to be found on the island of Peleliu. For breathtaking view and nice accommodations, try Koror’s Cliffside Hotel.

5. Santorini, Greece: This island is actually a live volcano, but it isn’t expected to belch again in our lifetime. The volcanic yield has resulted in black sand beaches and soil that grows some of the best wine grapes in existence. Because of the volcanic soil Santorini also grows some of the sweetest tomatoes in the world. You must sample the fried tomato balls (Keftadas). You may never see a more awe-inspiring site as when you gaze from the rim of the volcano and watch tiny boats cross the royal blue waters. If you can tear yourself away from that, you must visit the nearby town of Oia, with its stunning sunsets. Two terrific restaurants to visit are the Saltsa and the Nyhteri. Perhaps you can find lodging among the villages overlooking the submerged volcano. And two hotels that can be recommended are the Villa Kalimera and the Volcano View Villas.

6. The Caves Resort, Negril, Jamaica: The resort sits atop honeycomb, limestone cliffs overlooking the sea. It features eleven exclusive Cliffside accommodations, two main dining gazebos, and private cave dining. If you ever get tired of the view and the pampering, you can watch dolphins, jet ski, go horseback riding, or enjoy the sauna, Jacuzzi, or the saltwater swimming pools. The rooms of the resort overflow with ambience: music for whatever your vibe, candles and scented oils, the most comfortable beds, and gracious hospitality. Rick’s Cafe is one of the greatest places to eat. Sheddy Williams has been the head chef for 15 years. Enjoy the rich Jamaican coffee, the fresh fruit plate, mango daiquiris and a full course dinner. It is guaranteed that no matter how frayed your nerves when you arrived, you will leave the Caves refreshed.

7. Christ Church, Barbados: Why would you visit the Barbados? Well, for one thing, the residents love tourists and the crime rate is almost non-existent. You can cruise on a catamaran, swim with sea turtles, and watch the antics of hilarious green monkeys. The surf is consistently perfect for surfing , kite surfing, or windsurfing. You can watch a cricket game or play on a world class golf course. You can stroll the plantations, lush gardens or the rum distilleries. Then there are wonderful restaurants such as Oistin’s Fish Fry, the Restaurant at the South Sea, and Just Grillin’. You will love it.

8. Long Island, Bahamas: We’re not pushing Long Island alone. It is just an example of the Bahamian islands that are still beautiful, serene, and unspoiled by raucous crowds and unabashed commercialism. A massive spine of ancient reef gives the 80-mile island two faces: the sheer cliffs and caves of the east coast and the soft, sandy, mangrove-lined lee side which washes into the Bahamas Bank. Long Island does have numerous shallow and deep scuba diving sites. But it is best known for Dean’s Blue Hole, a vast abyss that tunnels down about 600 feet. Travel writers grow bored and jaded after seeing hundreds of beautiful island sites. However, a writer for Trip Atlas raved, “Long Island is a true hidden gem—the real paradise island of the Bahamas!” This island is also home to Columbus Point, towering memorial to Christopher Columbus, perched high atop a hill at the island’s northernmost tip. You will find everything in this place: sloping hills, vast beaches, high cliffs, gardens, caves, old plantation ruins, quaint villages, and pink sand with intricate seashells.

Now I’m feel a little sorry for you. You’re going to have to choose between all these incredible places and that’s the hardest part!